Beat It!

Day 117: While I'm working on setting up a couple of new projects to replace the tablet-weaving and inkle I've just completed, we can step into my crafts room and have a look at the process of weaving on a floor or table loom. I've mentioned beating the fibers into place and how the reed keeps them spaced as a certain sett of threads per inch (the latter more commonly referred to as "ends per inch" or "dents per inch," "epi" and "dpi" respectively). The weaver determines which reed to use based on suggestions from the fiber manufacturer or from experience. In this case, I am using a 15-dent reed and 8/2 cotton to make a series of dish towels. It's a combination I use frequently. The photo shows my last throw (also known as a "pick") only partways into being beaten against the fell line (the previous row). I passed the shuttle bearing the blue thread from right to left and will bring the wooden frame holding the metal reed (the beater bar) against it firmly to pack it into place. Then I will change the shed by depressing another pair of treadles so that I can make a throw from left to right in pattern.

You might notice that I've left a slight arc in the thread as it crosses the warps. This helps keep the selvedges of the cloth from drawing in and becoming more narrow as the weaving progresses. I have to brag a little: I got top marks for my selvedges in the judging at the Washington State Fair. It's a skill I've worked hard to master. Now as for "beating," the word is slightly misleading, although in this particular instance, the 8/2 cotton demands a pretty strong hand at this sett. Other fibers may ask to be gently pressed into place in order to prevent breakage or undue abrasion. Many fibers will "full" with washing as well, swelling to fill up the gaps between threads which are obvious when the fabric is raw. Whenever using a fiber for the first time, it is always advisable to weave a test swatch or at least treat a bundle of the threads in the manner they can expect in their new life as whole cloth. This will prevent any unpleasant surprises like shrinkage or colour-bleed.