Kulich

Day 186: It has been over forty years since I made kulich. This traditional Russian/Ukrainian Easter Bread is also known as paskha, and is perhaps one of the messiest doughs I have had the joy of working. There are two ways to give it its unique texture, kneading in either beaten egg whites or softened butter just before the final step of adding the fruits. One way or the other, you can count on working with a sticky, gooey mass for at least half of the 12-plus minute knead time. Is it worth it? I think so. The bread is redolent with the exotic scent and flavour of saffron, which also gives it its rich yellow hue. Served warm, it does not need anything else; not butter, not sugar, not jam or jelly. The raisins and candied fruit peels provide a light sweetness, although if you're like me, you'll probably save a bit with icing on for your last bite. Tradition holds that it should be presented with a pink rose (real or frosting) laid on its frosted dome, but I had neither handy, and in any event, Kevin showed up on my doorstep within minutes of the time I'd applied the frosting. I sent one of three home with him with wishes for a happy Easter.

Here is the "butter last" version of my recipe. Figures in parentheses are for a half-recipe.

4 1/2 tsp yeast (2 1/4 tsp)
1/2 cup warm water (1/4 cup)
1 cup warm milk (1/2 cup)

2 cups flour for sponge (1 cup)
1 tsp salt (1/2 tsp)

1/2 tsp saffron, ground (1/4 tsp)
1 cup golden raisins (1/2 cup)
2 Tbsp rum/brandy (1 Tbsp)
1 tsp vanilla (1/2 tsp)
1 tsp cardamom (1/2 tsp)

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar (3/4 cup)
6 eggs at room temp, separated (3)
6 1/2 cups flour (3 1/4 cups)
1 1/2 cups soft butter (3/4 cup)
1 cup chopped almonds (1/2 cup)
1 cup mixed peel (1/2 cup)

powdered sugar plus one egg white and a little lemon juice for icing

2 2-lb coffee cans or 3 6" panettone forms for full recipe

Dissolve yeast in warm water. Set aside to proof for 10 minutes. Soak raisins and spices in rum/brandy. Sift 2 cups flour into a bowl and add the warm milk. Mix well. Mix in proofed yeast to make a sponge. Cover, and let rest in a warm place for 30-60 minutes, or until bubbly. Separate eggs. Beat yolks with sugar until lemony and light. Drain rum/spices from raisins into the egg mixture, reserving raisins for later. Add vanilla. Beat until well combined. Beat egg whites with a pinch of salt until fluffy but not stiff. Add egg yolks to sponge. Gradually add beaten whites, stirring in gently. Gradually add flour until a soft dough forms. Pour out onto floured board. Knead in remaining flour (about 12 minutes). When the dough feels elastic, begin kneading in the softened butter (sticky!). Transfer to a lightly greased bowl and allow to raise in a warm place for 1 1/2 hours. Punch down and knead for a few minutes more. Dust raisins and peels with flour. Knead them into the dough with the almonds. Divide dough in half and place in two parchment-lined tins or three 6-inch panettone forms. Allow to raise until dough almost reaches the top (roughly 1 1/2 hours). Bake at 350 degrees for 45-60 minutes depending on size. Allow to cool. Make an icing with 1 egg white, powdered sugar and a touch of lemon juice.