Fulled Vs. Raw

Day 303: First, a qualifier: these are two different shades of blue, so please factor that in while comparing the fulled version (left) to the raw (right). Fulling is what occurs when a woven item is wet-finished. The fibers, tightly spun for durability, plump up and fill in any small gaps left in the weaving process. Depending on fiber content (in this case, 100% cotton) there may also be varying amounts of shrinkage in the finished cloth. This is where experience with a specific fiber or manufacturer comes in handy for the weaver, in that they can better estimate what the finished dimensions of a piece will be. For example, I have learned that when I am using Valley cotton, a 16" warp width will give me a 12.5" width towel, and I need to weave a 24" length to obtain a long dimension of 21". Even when changing brands of the same fiber, your mileage may vary due to a number of factors. With cotton, the obvious reason would be how tightly the yarn is spun and plied, but plant species and regional growing conditions may also affect how the fiber will full. Although these latter two considerations are not something the weaver usually thinks about, they can account for differences in the way a yarn behaves when washed. How will drought conditions affect cotton grown in Brazil? Will stressed cells full more readily, hungry for moisture, or will the fiber be more harsh? I don't know, but I have a feeling that if I'm still weaving ten years from now, I may need to adjust my formula for the ideal towel.