Dorset Buttons On Hardanger

Day 12: Murphy got a real workout as far as the hardanger was concerned on this piece. I wanted something fairly simple on which to display a variety of Dorset buttons. It should have been a piece of cake, but I think I made every mistake in the book as I developed the design. I cut the fabric too short. I didn't like the colour of the perle cotton (twice). I turned a corner of the stitchery incorrectly. I miscounted multiple times (I mean, any idiot ought to be able to count to five, right?). When I finally put the last stitches in place, I was ready for a break before doing any sewing, but a few days later, I backed the hardanger with stiff interfacing, sewed the buttons in place and added a broadcloth lining to the reverse side. The hanger and tassel were easy, and the work was ready to display on the narrow strip of wall between my linen cupboard and bathroom door. That's the only concession I make to decorating for the different seasons of the year, changing out a series of mini bell-pulls themed for spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Dorset-style Nosegay

Day 302: There is some debate among Dorset button aficionados as to whether nosegays, trees and other modern variations can truly be considered a "Dorset button." This one seems to be almost everyone's current favourite, and you'll see a lot of versions of it on the internet, but is it really a Dorset button? Obviously, it wasn't made in Dorset (I stitched it in my living room), so that's one count against it as far as the sticklers are concerned. Was it made in the era when handmade buttons were the only kind around? Again, obviously not. Is there a cut-off date for "genuine" Dorset button manufacture? Not to my knowledge. Nor does it even qualify as "vintage." The same type of debate rages over sashiko embroidery, but with even greater cultural implications. If a needleworker creates something using the same methods and materials, how can it not be called authentic? The problem here is that I am of two minds. I can see both sides of the argument. However, it is always best to err on the side of caution, and lest I give offence unwittingly, let me just say this button was made in a "modern Dorset" style.

The Basic Dorset Button

Day 294: I thought a revisit to Dorset buttons was in order for today so that I could show you a real one (as opposed to "needle-lace" style). Have I mentioned that I don't get out much these days, what with a little wild creature to tame, gas prices, hot weather, and a round of covid combining to keep me off the trails? I'm a bit desperate for material again, so bear with me. Anyway, the traditional and most basic Dorset button is made in this manner: using a single length of thread (4 meters here), a closely packed base of buttonhole stitch is applied over a ring (in this case, a 1" plastic curtain ring). The bumps around the outer edge are turned to the inside of the ring, and then using the same thread, a web of spokes is wound over it, progressing as if following the numbers on a clock. The number of spokes is up to the individual. When the spokes are complete, the center of the web will appear quite chaotic until a few cross-stitches are worked at the middle to separate them. Once the spokes have been isolated, the winding of the wheel begins. The thread is brought up from the back to the left of a spoke (assuming the worker is right-handed), then taken down through to the right of the same spoke. It is brought up again two spokes to the left (counting the spoke just wrapped). It is then taken down to the right of the leftmost spoke, creating a wrap around it. Again, bring the thread up two spokes to the left, and repeat around and around and around and around until the web of spokes is covered. I ran a bit short of thread before getting all the way out to the buttonholed ring, and because it's difficult to join a new thread seamlessly, I decided to let it stand as is. After all, this was just for a demonstration and, in fact, many old buttons were made this way without completely covering the spokes. With different ways to wind, many different patterns can be made over the spokes, even many which are not geometric, such as trees and nosegays.

Dorset Buttons

Day 293: Some years ago when my sister-of-the-heart Patty was here for a visit, I was dragging out various and sundry craft items to show her, one of which was hand-made greeting cards. I think I'd kinda overwhelmed her by then because she said laughingly, "Oh, and I suppose you made the paper, too!" I was reminded of a similar incident twenty years earlier, but I was compelled to answer honestly and somewhat sheepishly, "Yes, as a matter of fact, I did."

Yesterday, I got a note from Patty asking if I'd ever heard of "Dorset buttons." After all, I am a fiberartist, and while I haven't dabbled in every single type of thread-craft, I've certainly hit quite a few of the less commonly seen ones. "Yep," I said. "Lemme see if I can find mine." It took less time than expected, and although Dorset buttons are usually (but not always) made over a ring instead of a button form, these fall within the broader definition. Technically, they would be further distinguished with the term "needle-lace buttons," and the method of working is similar to that used in hardanger to fill open areas, or on a larger scale, in making traditional "god's-eye" decorations. A framework of threads is laid down, and then a pattern is created on the web by wrapping it in a specified order. The designs shown here are "checkerboard leek" (blue, top left), "star leek" (blue, bottom) and "Victorian star" (lavender-grey, top right). All were made with #8 perle cotton on a 3/4" shankless form. Almost any stiff material can be used as a base: cardboard, plastic discs, even commercially made buttons. As a general rule, they were meant to be removed before laundering, and often had a second button sewn to the back side to fit into a matched pair of buttonholes in the garment in the same manner cufflinks are used. After sending Patty the photo, I started to wonder where my instructions were. It took longer to find the directions than it did to find the buttons!