Day 113: Now that you understand the difference between warp (lengthwise threads) and weft (those which run across the cloth), let's explore the ways they can interact with one another. The number of patterns which can be created by raising some threads and lowering others is almost limitess, and by changing the type of thread or the number of threads per inch either horizonally or vertically opens out an even wider field of possibilities.
In the upper left, the photo shows a pattern woven on a traditional bird's-eye draft. What does that mean? In tabby (plain) weave, the threads cross each other in a very simple 1:1 pattern. The heddles are set up to raise every other thread in alternation, i.e., to form sheds of threads 1 and 3, then threads 2 and 4. The shuttle is passed at each change and a simple over-and-under weave emerges. But what if the weaver raised threads 1 and 2 on the first pick, then 2 and 3, then 3 and 4, and finally 4 and 1? If you took a piece of graph paper and coloured in the appropriate squares, you'd see that a diagonal line results. This is how a "four-shaft twill" is woven. That said, this assumes that you have run your warp threads through the heddles held in harnesses 1, 2, 3 and 4 in a repeating sequence. What if you used a different sequence to accommodate a multiple of six threads, e.g, running them through heddles 1, 2, 3, 4, 3 and finally 2 before starting the sequence at 1 again? You could still weave a plain weave by raising 1 and 3 alternately with 2 and 4 (the cream-coloured stripe in the photo), or you could create any of a number of different surface patterns by raising different combinations (the red and lavender bands are just one example). When the weft passes over more than one warp thread, it is referred to as a "float" because it floats above the background. Setting up the heddles is the most critical part of any weaving. A mistake in following the draft (pattern) will show up throughout the whole cloth. Once you're past that point, it's easy sailing.
Can you have warp floats instead of weft floats? Certainly! They are common in inkle weaving because it is warp-faced, i.e., the warp threads dominate the weaving, as opposed to a balanced weave where warp and weft share the spotlight. When creating an inkle band, warp threads are brought to the surface on throws where they would not occur in the natural shed, thus being forced to lay above the weft thread (diamonds, upper right). Tablet-weaving is also warp-faced (lower left), but the pattern is determined by the manner in which the colours are threaded through the cards and then turned into position. In both inkle and tablet, the weft threads are almost entirely concealed.
In contrast to balanced or warp-faced weaves, krokbragd (lower right, a Scandinavian development) is weft-faced. It can be made on a standard loom or rigid heddle, and employs three different sheds. The weft is beaten into place very firmly and covers the warp threads completely. The end product is a very dense and durable cloth suitabe for wall hangings, rugs, bags, etc.
